I pulled parts from a lot of different models. This make is a great starting place as it has tons of links to other parts and some discussion. I used the feet, RPi case and brackets, and brackets for the PS.I used the control box from this one, but I kinda regret it only due to the 10mm fan on the side. Even though it's a Noctua, it's still pretty loud (I was surprised by this). I may cut out part of the bottom and attach an 80mm fan instead (like on the PS).
I have used this Meanwell PS cover on all three of my printers (with this grill - double the Z to make it thicker). I love it. Whisper quiet with this cheap fan.
As far as Guides go, I watched a lot of Chris's Basement vids on this mobo/driver combo. I really didn't want to have to bend the diag pins on the 2209 drivers, but in the end I had to else the limit switches wouldn't trigger. I was thinking about trying sensorless homing until I discovered it doesn't work with the Z screw drives. I am using Marlin 2.0.7.2.
Still to do is add BLtouch because my build plate has a nice dip in the middle. I would use glass, but I really like spring-steal surfaces. I've been using this brand on my Creality printers (Shark already has one.)
[edit] One other note, I had to modify the control box for the SKR v1.4 USB and SD Card slots. It's not perfect, nor pretty, but it works. STL.
Thanks for the interest. I'm happy to answer any other questions.
Thanks for the write up and links! Saving this for later so when I have time I have a place to start. I also loathe moving my CR-10 because of the control box.
I'm in a similar boat as you, with fewer printers! I had to stop using my CR10s in Sept 2019 and just tried to turn it on this week, dead control board. So now i have a new 32 bit board and a new extruder on the way. Gonna probably do an all in one mod soon too!
This looks great! I also recently upgraded my cr10s to skr 1.4 turbo with 2209. I’m curious, did you install the latest marlin firmware? I have 2.0.7.2 I think and my only issue is when I turn the printer on my boot screen just appears with these big 2 white lines then everything runs as normal after. Are you have a similar issue or did you go with an earlier build of marlin? Or rather do you just control via the Pi and ditched the screen altogether?
Thanks! I'm using a BTT TFT35 v3.0 display, so no I don't. Even in Marlin mode, I didn't see that.
Very nice! I did basically the exact same thing for my OG CR-10S, that I also bought in 2018 aha. Congrats!
Since, I’ve added an original E3D Chimera which has been okay, but not stellar. I had the Hero Me 5 mount before with a 50 W heating element which had super extrusion rates!
Thanks! I'm going to work on extruder/hotend stuff after I get BLTouch working. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I may look at direct drive so I can have better luck with TPU. Also, I'd like to attach a laser some day. This quick-change mount looks really interesting.
Yep! I've been experimenting with that one, quite like it with my V6. I haven't been using his connectors, but that looks cool as well.
One thing to consider; don't print it in PETG or PLA if you're planning on printing ABS or other high temperature materials. I had my bed at 100degC, in a box, and realized my print was failing due to the dreaded heat creep causing everything to get loose.
I also don't like the suggested CR-10 hotend design -- I found one based on the heavy duty hotend design by chito on thingiverse.
Print it in ABS, or some other high temperature resistance material (ASA?)
This looks cleaner than my setup. I should probably redo mine thanks for the motivation
Don't you hate it when your printers aren't printing? Like wasted time...
This is some great stuff. Well done. Now add a bed level sensor haha
It's on the list!
Cool man ive just got done building the CR10s crearibo mod on mine same stepper drivers and flex plate but an E3d v6, prusa style direct drive and moved to 24V
DIY CR10S PRO
Damn that’s really clean good job. I want to do the same except have everything more contained in one box so I can have small storage drawers underneath.
Thanks! I think there is more room to play with, especially behind the RPi, if you wanted to add drawers. The placement of the touch screen was a smidge challenging as there is very little clearance between the bed adjustment knobs and the frame. A lot of folks put it off to the side, but the printer is already so wide that I'm having trouble finding a place for it.
Yeah I also want everything underneath, I have a BLTouch so that makes it a little easier. I’m also going to add a raspberry Pi 7” touch screen so I think I’m going to have them both up front like you have it with drawers off to the side but then I’ll need clearance on the side for the drawers so I don’t know what to do exactly
Good luck, looking forward to seeing your success.
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be the change you want to see in the world.
I've been thinking of doing this to my cr10 mini, along with installing an SKR board I just ordered (1.3, the 1.4 isn't easy to get I found).
The one thing I'm worried about is the placement of the power supply. Placing it below the print bed obviously requires the printer to be raised, like you did here. I'm worried that raising it that much will make the printer shake more. What are your thoughts on this? I see you've raised yours quite a bit, but you've also added balls under the feet.
The alternative would be to mount the power supply on the left side of the printer, like on an ender 3. Doesn't seem like a lot of people choose that route though.
This is nice. I however want the external box that comes with the older cr10’s. I have the CR10s pro V2 and I want to relocate everything so I can have the printer enclosed. But this totally makes sense if you don’t plan on printing anything requiring a heated enclosure. In theory, the electronics should be safe as it shouldn’t get that hot inside but heat creates resistance and heat is bad for electronics.
Hi, im actually plan to do this too. I’m currently upgrading my CR-10 V3 board to SKR mini E3 V3 and why not build this underneath the printer. Such a good idea!
Do you run the touch screen through raspberry pi?
No, I wanted to be able to access firmware settings so I use the TFT35 in compatibility mode. I do have an RPi mounted to the frame but I access it via a web interface.
Gotcha, thankl you :)
My first 3D printer was a Creality CR-10s that I bought in 2018. I had a lot of trouble with the hotbed due to faulty wiring in the control box. As it was my first printer, I didn't know much about repairing them so I stashed it in the garage and bought an Ender. That had problems too so I bought a Lotmaxx Shark - which also had problems. Through all the troubles I slowly learned how to repair them, and finally I decided it was time to rebuild the original CR-10s.
My main objective was to get rid of the control box, which always complicated moving the printer around. New BigTreeTech SKR v1.4 motherboard, TMC2209 drivers, new fans and power supply, and LOTS of Thingiverse models, and this is now my new favorite printer. I'm very proud of how it turned out, but even more satisfying is how well and silently it prints.
Do you have any guides or references that you followed when doing all of these mods? I want to do something similar to my CR-10S when I install my linear rails so I can reclaim the real estate the control box takes up, but I've never done anything with the electronics or firmware side of my printer so I'm not sure where to start.
Seconded, I'd love to do this to mine. The big one is having it more portable, that would be amazing.
I answered most questions in another comment.
could you recommend a power supply?. i tried to do the big leap to the skr 1.4 turbo board on my CR-10S as well and the power supply died. this is the first time i even opened the control box after using it for 2,5 years.
I recommend MeanWells. I used this one on the CR-10s. Make sure to check the Mains voltage switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0109IMRPS
Thank you very much!